Please share and thumbs up, 😊 thank you!
Ground Cable ACdelco 22846471
Positive Cable ACdelco 22850357 this is the cable that routes from the battery located on the passenger side all the way to the main fuse box.
This problem seems to be a common problem with Chevrolet Motors. Including but not limited to Tahoe, Denali, Avalanche and much more.
Parts and OEM numbers for 2011 Cadillac Escalade (FlexFuel)
Hey man can u send me the link to these ground cables.. no one around here carries them.. im having the issue where it randomly starts shutting down on the road then comes back just as fast it started.. please help
Please help ive have my 2012 tahoe for 3 months and half of that time was at the stealership working on this damn thing and still have not found the issue.. where are the best place to buy these cables at? And is there a youtube video showing how its done?
+bruteman45 , wrong, bukkake recipient and rimmer. Toyota has the highest resale value, if you can find a Toyota owner to sell you one, dumbass bitch. GM shitbox jalopies are a dime a dozen and inferior rides for the unrefined masses. You continue to lose, stupid and ignorant bastard.
Thank you man, I really appreciate you putting out this video. I'm having this problem with my 2014 Chevy Suburban. I think this will solve the problem. I had this same problem on my 07 Chevy Suburban too. I love GM products but I don't know why they haven't sorted out this problem from over 10 years ago.
If he wants to talk for 10 minutes before he gets to the point it's his business, his video seems to have been helpful to several people, unlike your comment. Fast forward the video if you are too impatient to wait.
Just trying to be helpful... when I made this video I was not aware that this Issue was a common problem. I was excited about the repair and was only trying to explain the issues that I had. I hope the video still helped.
I have an 2011 Escalade also. And the door locks and stero and alot start to freak out and as im driving the car has turned completly off and its scary. The wiring is also exposed. Im looking for a solution right now so i hope this is the problem.
I was having the same problems my lights were flickering my door locks were flickering and my truck was losing power at even shut down on me on the freeway I had no lights and no power with my kids in the car thank you so much I appreciate this
My 2013 xts platinum is having this issue it will loose power but the postive cable get hot & the car shut down if I take the battery cable off for a while & put it back on it cranks someone please help
John Caver My 2014 xts did the same thing..randomly shuts down all electrical gauges, but car still runs..it was the both the same thing..changed both terminals..positive and negative should be good 2 go..Caddy wanted 1200.00..yeh ok..crooks
could this be the problem with a 2015 silverado 1500 5.3L? I get dimmed lights, dashboard, radio comes in and out, battery saver alerts pop up, traction control notifications pop up, stabilitrak and service stabilitrak comes up the most. Causes tons of issues when I go to start the truck. I hear the starter grinding trying to get going. I have replaced my battery for an upgraded high cranking model, also replaced my starter already at less than 75k miles. I'm at 78k now. My truck has also on several occasions, turned off completely on the turnpike. I have to fight the steering wheel to pull over to the side because the power steering dies as well.
Theirs a guy that put up a video on same truck same issue! It's the driver side ground on the top of the dash by the top speaker. Take the trim piece off by the inside window and on the driver side corner by the inspection sticker theirs a ground that is not making good contact because their is a seal keeping it from making good contact
Alot of people don't share there knowledge this Is a great video. Me being a mechanic I can share a tip as well you can add more grounds to your system and avoid a ground issue if your factory ground corroded or breaks. I do tons of car audio and just by adding additional grounds many issues are fixed.
Have a 2013 Chevy Suburban. My radio would turn off if I used two power windows at the same time. Took to the dealer couldn't duplicate the issue. Ordered a new battery ground cable. That didn't fix it. I cleaned the area where the negative battery cable went to engine, battery, and frame behind passenger headlight. That helped a little bit. Located another ground under driver seat foot area on frame rail. Was corroded at frame. Cleaned with wire brush, reattached, and painted. Issue gone!
Thank you very much for posting this video. My 2012 Yukon experienced the same problem yesterday. To condense a very long troubleshooting story, I connected my code scanner today to see if there were any codes. When I tried to turn on the ignition with the scanner connected, there was absolutely no power. I thought the scanner might have somehow blown a fuse or fried the electronics. I turned to YouTube and found your video.
I connected my DVM to the stud on the battery connector, and checked a couple of grounding points under the hood. Both points read 7.5 volts, so I knew the problem was in the ground cable. After removing it from the battery, and squeezing the hex crimps where the ground wires enter the battery connector, the problem disappeared. I will replace the battery ground terminal at some point, but it was certainly a relief to find the problem was not in the electronics. Funny thing, the battery terminal and the copper cables that are crimped inside it look clean and bright. There was no evidence of discoloration or corrosion. I would not have suspected that connection as being the problem, based on a visual inspection. It was ironic that the ground connection gave out when I connected the code scanner.
Thank you for sharing! I know just replacing the terminal would have corrected the issue, but I decided to replace the entire ground cable just to cover my bases. I dealt with this issue for quite sometime before locating this exact problem and I’m happy my solution has helped so many people. I realize my video was not perfect quality but it did save me $3,500 from the shops estimated repair charges. Maybe all of the people that disliked my video were associated with dealers... thank you again for taking the time to comment.
I absolutely agree but I think GM may have manufactured a poorly made terminal in this particular situation. This issue started at 30,000 miles and the dealer couldn’t find me a solution to the vehicle losing power so I dove in and I happen to find the problem myself.
With all the bright engineers working at Chevrolet Escalade, this issue was sufficient to issue a recall to all car owners. My guess they knew about it, but chose to ignore to save money. By the way, it is no surprise to learn they need 6 persons just to replace their light bulbs. Each watching the other's back. But the big honcho makes the call. some call it dumb, other call fuck up team, but hey that is how it is being run at Chevrolet, the head honchos are superiorly idiots. sad to know about this since the Chevrolet brand was once a respected car brand.
TweekerDan1984 no it just cranks but won't start, I recently added a new ground strap and it started with no hesitation but died on the road 20 min later, no power goes to the fuel pump to start it. And I also put a new fuel pump as well
why do they make things just ready to break nowadays?? I mean seriously, my Uplander has more problems with connectors than a one legged man in an ass kicking contest! Its like they design failure into in-needed shit! Very frustrating!
betteryoubetter they do it so you can pay an arm and a leg but enough people on here know how to fix them they just have to be willing to share so others don't get robbed. If you ever need help come to my channel and ask
I soldered the end of my negative cable and ran a 6 gauge wire from the body bolt on top of that brace next to the battery down to the frame and connected the other end to the wedge clamp bolt on the neg terminal.
Had same exact symtoms on an 08 escalade. I replaced the negative battery cable fixed all problems. It looked like the small lead going to the frame was a little carroded and there was not a good connection there. Thanks for the help great video.
I have the exact same problem with my 2008 Escalade. It is interesting that I do the exact same thing to get the vehicle running. I popped the hood, wiggled the ground cable while pressing the button on my remote and that always worked. So to day I googled "Escalade loosing ground connection" and found your video. Thanks for confirming my suspicions and for your excellent video on how to fix the problem! The big question is "Why didn't the Cadillac mechanics find the problem". This vehicle has been looked at by GM mechanics several times and they couldn't figure out why it was happening. Thanks again!
+Robert Brady thanks for the comment. I had the same issue with the dealer not locating this problem and charging an arm and a leg. I imagine maybe the dealers are why I have a few 👎🏻. I'm happy to have helped so many people.
Just replacing the (-) battery terminal lug was corrected the Total Power Loss for my 07 Silverado. When it would happen I could just jiggle the end of the cable at the battery to restore power.
Didn't see the logic in buying another OEM cable to go bad, just a $10 fitting at AutoZone. I just used a 12V test light. I had a bright light from post to post on the battery. But I could barely get the lamp to light if I went to the ground post on the engine to the (+) terminal.
I ran a jumper from the (-) battery terminal to the ground post on the engine. Immediately got power back.
this just started to happen on my 07 tahoe.... glad I found your post... yet I have already replaced the conector at the alternator, the alternator and the battery... I have it at a friends shop right now with an anti theft code.... going to buy the ground cable today and replacing it... I will let you know how it goes
Tony Snow did you check all your other ground connections ? Sometimes you can have a short to ground and or your alternator voltage regulator can cause the same problem had about of these trucks come in same issue
If your multimeter is reading 12.6 volts at the battery then I would check power to ground from your main fuse box located on the driver side. If you aren't reading at least 12 volts then you know you have a bad ground.
If the battery is not holding a charge around 12.6 volts I would replace the battery. Hope you figure it out.
+Cam Mims Yes this fixed my problem completely, over 4 months without any issues. It is important to do a good job on connecting the grounds properly. Also I would use dielectric grease on the ground sensor mentioned in the video.
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