For quite some time, my truckling has been suffering from a vacuum leak that would sometimes make the climate controls not work (especially under hard acceleration--needed to keep after the Keykeeper's supercharged Pontiac!). Also, when the engine was off, airflow would revert to the dash vents due to vacuum loss. (GM vehicles have a failsafe position that is a mix between the heater outlet and defroster vent. Why mine went to the dash vents I don't know.)
If you are not able to switch between HOT and COLD airflow, your blend door actuator has probably failed. On a 2003 truck and probably anything 98-up, the blend door is operated by an electric motor. Failures are usually due to one of the gears stripping out or cracking. If you're faced with this repair, you may find this video from Youtuber Steve Crosier worthwhile: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiwZeJlAQdo
A number of people have indicated that the vacuum line going down into the fender well area connects to a vacuum reservoir. I never had to troubleshoot that and can't speak to where it goes.
As of April 2013, I don't own this truck any longer. Anyone seeking detailed service advice about this or any other repair should get the GENUINE GM FACTORY service manual. Do NOT waste your time or money on the Haynes or Chilton's manuals -- they are just about worthless.
Watching this and I go out and check and all three of the vacuum lines coming off of that T thing on my truck were rotting and crumbling away!
Now, I just gotta go get new vacuum lines and fix it,
(apparently, I'm not the only one saying THANKS lol)
I've got a 01 blazer and I've got the same problem and now I think I know why, on that t joint where 3 hoses connect mine only has 2 houses on it 1 that goes over the top of the brake booster and another that comes out the side of the fender area my question is where is that other hose come from that comes from the front past the fuse box? 8ve searched everywhere and cannot find the 3rd hose that connects to that t joint, it would be a huge help if you could tell me.
Thank you for the tutorial, it really saved the day. This saved hours of aggravation. I googled the symptoms and your video came up. I watched it and didn't bother looking at any other information went to the truck and touched the line only to have it disintegrate. Went to my parts store and asked for a couple inches of vacuum line and picked up a couple other things and got the line free. Put the new line on and mama (and state inspector) will be happy. A quarter million views! You can figure that's the amount of hours you saved with this video.
Again Thank You!
thank you for this video, i had the same problem with my 1999 chevy s-10 pick up truck, that vacuum line with the tee connection coming from the wheel well was so corroded.. the moment i touched it, it turnt to dust... :) i bought replacement vacuum hose and fixed it myself for under $9.00 .. THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN..
I've owned a 1995 GMC Sonoma and now a 1999 S10 and I always thought it was peculiar that the little 4 bangers had the same response to climbing a steep hill with the gas to the floor. The air flow would always switch from defrost to dash heat. Recently the defrost stopped working altogether. I saw your video and checked the tubing you demonstrated and sure enough it was rotten with a hole in it. Has to be the easiest you tube fix I have ever had. Never dawned on me that vacuum was even used anymore. Thanks for posting.
What is the name of that "T Joint"? I have a leak on the other tip of the line going into what looks to be the fender, but the tube was so corroted that it fell apart. Now I don't know where it was connected to. It was sucking-up air, but I just plugged it with a screw. But I do want to find out where it belongs. There's no more hissing sound, but I'm afraid it might leave me stranded. If I only had schematic for that little part.
I don't know what its official name is. If you go to a GM dealership they ought to be able to provide a complete diagram with part numbers and names.
It will not leave you stranded. The worst that will happen is failure of the climate control blend door to operate, a Check Engine light, somewhat lumpy idle or a vacuum leak if you don't plug it temporarily.
Thanks a million. Same exact problem that you had. I was giving serious thought to selling my S-10 truck (13 years old), versus paying a garage or trying to tear apart dash and fix myself. I actually replaced all vacuum hoses going to the T-fitting and HVAC works like a champ. Cost me under $10. Thanks again for posting the video.
Never mind, I found the other end but it was kinda hidden behind the anti-lock stuff. It just fits on a little nipple going to the vacuum reservoir behind the fender but it sticks out enough to stick the hose on it..
On my 97 and 98 Lesabre the module was behind the glovebox. (probably there on the Bonneville too) They contain solenoids which directs the pressure. It's well noted that the nipples on those style modules tend to get soft over time and lose vacuum pressure. Also the harness itself might begin to leak.
Luckily, I was able to go find a decent module out of a junkyard for $8 (AC Delco wants $450 for a new one.)
+uxwbill i got a 96 s10 4.3 it has that vacuum pod mounted under the hood. Guess what,the hosing is not rubber but good ol' hard plastic the sturdy shit. And not a problem with rust either 20 years old!
Thank you for the info. My 1999 GMC Sonoma is doing the same thing. All of my hoses up there are shot. I'll have to replace them all. The long one is split wide open. Everything pretty much looks the same as on your S-10.
I had a recurring and similar problem from poor vacuum. Even had the heater controls module replaced. That didn't last. My 2WD to 4WD switch was intermittent and I fixed the problem all at one. The main vacuum hose end was split at the intake manifold, about 1/2 an inch, and I merely snipped it off and put it back on. Everything works. I even went back to the mechanic and gave him a good talking to. Start at the source, right?
Thank you so much. You gentlemen saved me a bunch of money. My problem was exactly the same as yours. Thanks to you, I was able to fix it myself. Keep up the good work.All of us non mechanic guys need guys like you.
Thanks. My ac went out and I thought it was low on free on. Went all summer without air. Then the other morning it was cool so I cut heater on and got nothing but vent air. Mine also would not come out at feet. Was going to check fuses because I have not heard of ac and heater going out at same time. Decided to check online first. Just saw your video, went outside popped the hood and sure enough my hose fell apart in my hand as soon as I touched it. Crossing fingers and hoping this is the issue. The age of the internet is great for things like this. Thanks for uploading sir.
+uxwbill its worked fine since the last post. It was just stuck for some reason but after closing by hand one time, it now operates properly and the heat will smoke you out of there. Thanks for all the help sir.
+uxwbill Hey thanks again for the videos. Things like this really help average people. Update on mine: Took it to a shop and they said actuators were good and seemed like the blend door was stuck for some reason. They said it would take 10 hours labor and cost at least $650. Dad told em put it back together and we would come get it. Low on money here. This morning me and dad removed the defrost under the hood and could see the door from the hole. When cutting heat on it only moved maybe half an inch. Took a long rod and pushed on it. It unstuck the door and it moved freely as it is supposed to. That was all it took. The heat works as good as ever. Took maybe thirty minutes and cost nothing. Glad I saw your video though, so my hoses have all been replaced. I had trouble finding blend door info on the web, so I plan on posting my fix on a few spots. Hopefully it can help others as you did. Your the man Bill. Much appreciated.
+uxwbill where are other lines. There were two smaller ones coming off of a larger one. The ones in your video. One small end went on a plastic (valve/stem?) on side of the hood. Those were the only three that I saw. We replaced all of those. Sorry for inadequate vocabulary. I am def. not an automotive expert.
+uxwbill well me and my dad just got done replacing all three lines and it still wont blow out feet and not getting warm or cool. Guess well have to try something else. Any suggestions? Thanks, I just knew this was my answer here.
So on the way to work this morning I had no controls work other than max a/c. We had a long rain overnight and windshield needed defrost. I had nothing. Was pondering all day at work about it and I knew that I was going to end up taking the dash out. BOOOO on that! Just wanted to tell you thanks for the video. The vacuum line was dry and rotten all the way through. My AC is blowing like a champ( force wise) and every other control is working too. All for about three bucks!! You DA MAN! Thanks again.
HELP !!!! I have a 2001 GMC Sonoma 4 cyl. extended cab 2 wd, I don't know where the vacuum line goes thats in the video theres 2 lines coming off the hose coming from the intake I can't figure out where it goes somebody PLEASE HELP me !
On the video at 3:37 where does the vacuum hose plug into?? YOU didn't show it when he was putting it back together, you showed your rust ! I need to know where the hose hooks to, not the piece he replaced but the other and could you tell me what the white thing is, that connects the vacuum lines together !!
I have a brake booster problem and I need to replace the check valve and vacuum hose running to it. There's actually a large hose that goes into a metal line and a smaller hose running from the other side of the metal line into the engine. It's a 97 S-10 2.2 so any ideas where I can buy the vacuum hoses? No luck finding them online so far. Thanks in advance for anyone who may be able to help.
Unfortunately I have to take out my climate controls. I have a vacuum leak and the controls quit working at the same time. I hear a leak from the controls, but not all the time. So I got a question, would I have to replace the entire control box or is there something inside I can replace? Thanks!!
+Tyler McGonigal the hose will go to the vacuum connector- it goes to the hose barb under the breather (you just pop the breather off using a spring loaded clip on the back side under the edge of the breather--and remove a couple connectors and then you can see where it goes under the breather/intake )where it gets its pressure from the engine and the white things are also hose barb connectors you can get at any autoparts store usually 8-ten different sizes and shapes straights-tees-l's ... for about 5 dollars.http://www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/vacuum-connector-and-tubing......this is all I know without seeing the video or having the manual in front of me...hope this helps.
believe it or not the hose you had your hand on that goes under the brake control module actually goes to a vacuum canister mounted inside the fender and all it does is attach to the plastic hose barb that sticks our of the fender... mine broke in the exact same places and who ever worked on it before me placed the vacuum line behind the brake booster.....the only way I found it was I had to replace the brake booster and when I took off the booster I found out just about all the vacuum lines on my truck were powder turning into dust...all the rubber lines were broken and leaking... I know the video is old ,just thought if anyone else read this they could find a little useful info in this....
+barbara barfield if your still trying to find better pictures or information of s-10 repairs I would try the s-10 forum... I cant share images on here.......I have the factory manuals which show all the different models and how to repair them.........unless your (I am ) looking for detailed images and instructions that why come on you tube where they show how to repair most problems with video... I took a 91 s-10 and pulled the four cylinder+ manual transmission out and swapped in a v6 automatic and had less trouble doing that than doing the vacuum lines on my 99 s-10 : ) I still have one vacuum line that goes down behind the engine and looks like it heads down towards the transmission ...I replaced all the other lines I could see on top in the engine compartment ..........blahblahblah means I hope you find better info/pictures/video on the vacuum lines. : ) the only other place I know to get the info you need as far as a complete schematic/routing of the vacuum lines is at the dealer parts department and have them print off a copy ...they will usually do it if you ask them nicely...sorry I could nt help more..later
+barbara barfield mine goes into the fender on my 1999 zr2 s-10 i removed the ecm for the abs from the fender to find out where it actually went.....either yours is a different year/set-up or someone has changed the routing/and where it connects.....because mine has a vacuum canister in the fender...if i could share photos on here i could show you exactly where the line goes ..http://i39.tinypic.com/2ijrtia.jpg..............http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/mystery-vacuum-line-near-abs-439574/
just bought the....hell i forgot what i bought....haha... think it was the 7/32 and the 5/32 vac hose, in a prepackaged form at Oriellys. didnt quite understand the whole deal from your video, but i figured it out, got all three lines replaced.... fan freakin tastic! i actually can switch air to anywhere i want again!..... ty ty ty ty ty..... i cant believe how rotten that hose was..... still not getting quite as much heat as i should..... the heat control does work, but doesnt get quite as hot as it should..... next step, flush out heater core... when i get a round tuit ...
You guys nailed it! I had the same problem. I was fortunate enough to watch your video after the one where you tear out the truck interior to get to the actuators. My lines were rotten and I still havent found the other line that six inch line goes to off one of the tees! previous comment said its in the fender weld somewhere so I'll check that but thanks again
thanks for the info, tried to fix mine its 95 s10 4 cylinder. on the four cylinder the vacuum 1line goes across the back of the engine to a larger tube, another end goes to a plastic bubble on the hood and the tee you fixed on yours goes back into the firewall with the main wiring harness. I rechecked all connections across back of engine. also I disconnected the temperature sensors thats on the passenger firewall up top near the blower motor. and removed it. there are three screws , after that you can take it out and see if it needs replacing mine was clean. put everything back together and my starting working again..
I have the same truck as you do, but my has no heat i have check everything. I have good air flow but no heat. I flush the heater core and change the thermostat. I need help (95 s10 chevy, 4x4, pickup truck) thanks
thanks!!! my problem was with my differential and heard about vacuum leak could have been the problem. i located disintegrated hoses in the same spot. but my hose was the one shown going down to nowhere and your video nailed where to look. saved myself alot of $. cost 1.98 for the hose and repaced a few others for that price. very cool ! thanks again !
+barbara barfield The one he wasn't sure about pulling out and knowing where it went was attached to a bolt on the firewall. I literally just solved this problem with an O'Rielly's associate. I have the same year and model as the truck hopefully you fixed it by now. I had done some research where it goes and everyone said there's was attached to the bolt but they were not sure it officially went there and it does
Thanks for this video. I watched this video last night, went out this afternoon, popped the hood on my '98 S10 Blazer and in the exact same place by the brake booster my vacuum lines were collapsed from the engine block to that same TEE and to the left fender (were does that go anyway?). So I replaced 2 foot of 7/32" hose and about a foot of 5/32" hose. All for less than $5 in hose.
Thanks for this video. I had exactly the same problem, ordered my actuator, was taking all the under dash parts apart prepping for when the part come in. I got aggravated as the area is to darn small for me. So I come in and was going to try youtube one more time for maybe another fix and I found this. Watched it, went back out, had the same rotten vacuum line that you showed. Went to Advanced Auto, got me a 2" piece for like .60 cents, put it on and it did fix my problem, so got my money back on the actuator, not to mention, they ordered the wrong one anyway.
The hoses from that tee go to the vacuum reservoir inside the left front fender behind the anti-lock module, the other goes to the HVAC controller in the dash (black hard plastic line) and to the transfer case vacuum switch 5/32 rubber line.
the hose you replaced in this video where does the hose next to it lead to mine isnt connected to anything the only thing i could find as to what it might be connected to is a stud under the lip by the ABS controller
You're sure right about that Joe W. I couldn't find anything about it but i found out taking the dash apart and the fender and found the vacuum bubble in the driver side fender.The bubble was more visible on other years... I replaced all the vacuum lines in the dash and the bad pieces under the hood. I also re routed the vacuum lines as some they had going over the motor, and/or hot areas found 2 lines on passenger side with holes burned through. I put in good tubing also. There was also a broken vent flapper in the dash and a bad actuator. Anyway I probably should've replaced all the tubing but this job was long as it was, and i was glad when i was finished...
I literally have the exact same issue with my 1998 Chevrolet s10 2.2L. I am having a hell of a time though attaching to the tiny hose that disappears into the truck. I have no issue connecting the new hose to the T but it is the small connecter that is an issue. Did I loose a piece in removing the original dry cable? I looked but did not see any parts fall through the hood. Should I just use a clamp on it to seal it if I did lose a piece? Any input on this is appreciated.
on my s-10 i blew compressed air through heater core to ensure its not plugged.
i get a little heat then now and then your hear a vent slam under the dash and i got cold air. like the other poster my temp dial feels like its not hooked up and is hot
I have a 1987 Chevrolet S10 blazer.My temperature control is a up and down lever as well as the controls for the direction of the air...defroster, A/C, heater,etc.... Mine was stuck on heat at the beginning of summer and I had someone "fix" it for me. It is now stuck on A/C. Any ideas how to get it back on heat? The lever for the temp control moves freely (no pressure) like it is not hooked up. I assume they changed something under the hood last summer because I know they did not take the dash out.
Last week I noticed that I had no air out of the defroster or floor. I originally thought it was something mechanical. Thanks to your video I discovered the hose from the right side all the way to the middle of the engine was dryrotted. Got a new hose in, but busted that tiny hose you commented on. Thanks to duct tape and that valve piece, I have full air in all positions again. If you are ever in Oklahoma I'd like to shake your hand and buy you a beer!
I'm having the same issue! I have no idea where it goes. the other two tubes are in great shape but the one that's disconnected is dry rotted all the way through. Bought a new one and plugged it for now, but I need to know where it goes! Can't find anything
Yeah, great freakin place! And how the heck do you replace it? Mine is about as rotten as the other hose which fixed my problem with the Max air and defroster not working! I'm scared to mess with the other one. Put some mink oil on it and will maybe put some silicon or epoxy. Scared to pull it off as I sure as hell don't want to have to pull my fender well off!
Curious...one of those hoses in the area that you replaced...where does it connect to on the back of the engine bay, the firewall, whatever you want to call it. I tried helping a friend out and the only place I could see where it came from was a bolt stick out. He said he pulled it off from the back and i cant see where to replace it except for that bolt. It doesnt make sense. Can you explain?
ok when your working on a 1998 chevy blazer 4.3 lt to remove the valve covers the only side that's a pain in the but is the driver side this is how you get the driver side off first step take off surp belt then there are 3 or fore long bolts that are in the air conditioning bracket do not again do not try and remove the star bolt that sits in the bracket remove the nut that sits on the star bolt pull the ac unit back and its going to be a tight fit but you will get it hope this helps you es
Hey, thanks for the video. I had no idea what was causing my weak airflow out of the vents. I stumbled across this video searching for advice on freon psi. After watching I replaced both the long piece (7/32 width hose) and the short piece (5/32 width hose). Then added about 1/3rd of a can of freon. For about $25 total - with a lot of leftover hose - my AC is stronger and colder than ever. 2002 2.2l 4cyl. Chevy S10 Pickup. 145k miles. I really appreciate it.
I ordered a flap door actuator for $40. Then I found your video. I pinched off the hose and reconnected and the vents worked better. I have a 94 Sonoma and I see a lot of vac lines dry rotted. Now I am on a mission to change all the lines.
Yep, exact same problem & hose here. For those questioning where the 3rd (5/32") line goes, there is barb fixed in the inner fender well. It's tucked up under the wiring harness that runs through there. You can see it with a mirror and can get it reconnected with a little patience. Thanks for the video! It was a huge help.
yes i have fixed it. for me it was the vacuun hose that runs from the T-Case Switch to the front axle acuator, it was completely dry roted all the way through the hose. first off i would check the actuator to see if it has any problems, if the seems to be ok then go and check your vac lines, they run from the switch over the transmission, goes up the passenger side of trans and then up into the motor area. watch these vids they help me
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