http://BigNate84.com - In this video I'll show you how to complete a drive cycle inorder to pass inspection after turing off your check engine light. There are 8 monitors that register the performance of of the vehicle. Once the check engine light is cleared these 8 monitors need time to conduct an accurate reading. If you have a Code Scout 700 http://amzn.to/Nnwvot you can get a reading that tells you how many monitors are ready and how many are incomplete. All 8 monitors need to be in a "ready" status before you can pass inspection.
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I believe the driving cycle is to sell gasoline, other mechanic requirements is to sell auto parts. Clean air is to plug in cat converter to the exhaust pipe like many countries are doing. The law was given to me before I could understand and was able to vote. Glad new generation is smart to switch to electric vehicles.
Not really accurate at all. Just because catalyst and eval don't set does not mean that you haven't completed a drive cycle it means you haven't met the pack's pre-set conditions in which it complete a cat and eval test which are the hardest to set especially on general motors vehicles. There is a way to force set 7 out of 8 monitors and if you want all 8 then you force set and then bomb down the threat in 2nd gear and get the converter almost what seams melting hot and it'll set. I've driven some vehicles for a week 80 miles to and 80 back from work and still didn't set the cat and evap moniters until I force set them
I think it may be vehicle specific. But on my 2004 Yukon Denali I have to drive it 30 to 35 minutes for the check engine light to come back on. I've learned this by doing it five separate times while I was trying to clear codes for a bad oxygen sensor which I did. And then after I replace that it told me I had a catalytic converter issue. So yesterday morning I used cataclean and it varies it says drive your vehicle 15 minutes or up to 50 miles. So I drove 45 minutes out of Denver and I did the reset on my computer. And I've driven more than 3 hours since then and no check engine light. I will be going to try my emissions again Monday.
I've got two Dodge Caravans, and I don't drive them often. Even with a battery "maintenance" charger on it, the battery will go dead enough to make the ECU lose its memory if you don't drive the car for a few weeks. There is NO "drive cycle" that will reset the Cat or the O2 sensors, other than driving the car around for several HUNDRED miles! I've been through this three times now, and it takes forever. This is totally stupid, but it's the world we live in today.
Also if you clear a check engine light and you complete a drive cycle your check engine light comes back on at the end of the drive cycle. So your video says you can pass it but you still got to complete a drive cycle. How tho if the check engine light comes on after you complete a drive cycle???
went to take an emissions test and I failed due to monitors on my drive cycle saying "not ready". I needed a tune-up and that's why it was doing that. Well I have a machine that I can test all this on and all week all my monitors have been saying "ready". Well this morning I go to run another test just to ensure I'm going to pass inspection this morning and now all of my monitors are saying "ready"except for my cat. Now I know you're allowed one monitor to say "not ready". however my question is can my cat say "not ready" as long as my other ones are saying "ready" and will I pass that way??? Also why after repairing the car and all my monitors have said "ready" for a week but now on the day I am going to inspection now everything is saying "ready" expect for the cat??? It makes no sense.
The drive cycle can be done within 20 miles, or less.
Drive 40-55mph for at least 5 minutes and COAST to 20 mph, WITHOUT brakes--(this can be dangerous so find a good spot on a highway with WIDE shoulders or find a rest stop with LONG entrances. The slower you go the less distance you need to come down to 20 mph)
Stop and Idle 10 seconds, turn off engine for one minute.
Restart car and drive over 40-55 mph for two minutes, and come down to 20 mph with normal use of brakes.
Idle ten seconds. Turn off engine for one minute.
Restart and Test ECU with scanner.
The easiest way to pass the smog test you need to clean your catalytic converters and intake system with water if still didn't pass replace your sensors for sure you are not going to drive a million miles to complete the driving cycle. I buy and sell use cars and it works for me everytime.
Oh, now I understand. You're the first person to recognize Margaretsville as an actual town in NY! I used to go fishing and deer hunting with my pop and brother back in the 70s up near Margaretsville and Arkville. My pop had a cabin on what I remember as "Dry Brook Road". And the fishing in Lake papackton was awesome----amazing brook trout. Anyway, when I started up my youtube channel I used the Margaretsville name cause it reminded me of the good times I had when I was a kid. Anyway, nice talking to you, hope you get a deer this season!
Okay I just got my inspection sticker rejected my truck is 2000 Chevrolet it has 39,405 miles on the failure is p0300 Random; Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected ! This is the First time in 17 years that my truck failed
The 1999-2006 Silverados were known to have multiple cylinder misfire codes a lot. Effin' junk. My grandfather had a 2000 Silverado 1500 with the 4.3L V-6. Friends of mine had the 5.3L V-8's in their trucks. For all intents and purpose, they all ran fine.
We saw plenty of them roll through the shop, back in the day. (They still show up on rare occasion, but most folks either find a way around the CEL for inspection or give up and junk their old truck altogether.) Pretty sure that was the ultimate plan of the EPA and the manufacturers all along - force people to keep buying new vehicles.
Anyhow, pretty much all of the GM trucks had frequent random misfire codes accompanied by the CEL on in the dash. It got to be where we cleared the codes once a year and were able to drive the truck through a drive cycle and immediately got it to the inspection station to get a sticker. Some time later, the CEL typically came back on. Those POS trucks had frequent issues with random multiple misfires.
I actually fixed my gramps truck, but it took me forever and a lot of parts were needlessly replaced after many, many hours spent, and endless frustration.
I wish to god I had documented the time, money and actual solution. Unfortunately, I never did. We sold the truck several years later after I had properly fixed it. Thinking back, I'm almost certain it was a strange electrical issue that was easily overlooked, but alas, I honestly don't remember.
Luckily for me, I plan to never own another truck like that, so I guess I don't really care.
I was going find service manual for my truck in PDF unable retain 2000 Chevrolet Silverado V8 online! So I'm going have it service by professional! I feel scared being RIPOFF by mechanic ! I got 30 day to get it ✅
If the vehicle passed emission test, you should be good to go. Where is the law that says if computer's having some glitch, you need to spend lots of money trying to fix it? How were they able to pass this kind bogus requirement?
I'm so headache about my VW vr6, the emission inspection is pass due, my friends told me that I'll not pass the NY Emission test due to the engine and abs lights on,,unless will spend a lot of money to fix it, but I try to many ways to solve it, but fails , what should I do?
is anybody tell me how,, I'll be much appreciated!!
what is drive cycle steps for 2011 Honda pilot ex-l All monitor is clear except EVA not ready. can you help and there was no check engine but I believe dealer I bought from changed battery and I did complete few drive cycle but still not working
Older cars 2001 and before are allowed 1 0r 2 monitors incomplete..but newer ones need all okay........I hear....
My ten day ran out and I got a ticket while doing a drive cycle...sucks...had issues to fix and ten day ran out.....So now I may have to tow to inspection station....blows........jp
I have a 2003 Toyota matrix. The check engine is been on for a few months, i already changed the oxygen sensor and clean up the mass flow sensor, it did nor passed the smog. OBDII monitors shows " Not Ready" catalyst, evaporative system and oxygen sensor heater appears now.
What can i do now? I already spent around $200 dls
Hello, I moved to a state with emission inspections and had my car tested and failed because my monitors were disabled. When I scanned I am showing N/A under several monitors. I have been trying to get help on how to turn them on but people just keep confusing my issue with drive cycles needing to be complete. I don' know if you know anything about this. I bought the car used and can't find any information on what could cause this.
mrt18bbaia is right.
The NA means that perimeter is not one that your car uses, you only have to worry about the ones that show incomplete or inc, not ready, on some scanners., A lot of states will allow you to have one incomplete, and still pass the emissions part of the inspection.
Its a nissan 350z. After taking it to the dealership the tech was just as baffled as I was, even more so because the nissan scanner shows everything as normal, even an 02 sensor that was missing was displaying fluctuations in voltage. The emissions or third party tools wont show anything. It looks like I need a new ECU, not really sure what the previous owner had done. Thanks for responding though.
have a Ford F-150 the check engine light was on they told me it was a catalytic converter Bank 1 I had all 4 catalytic converters replaced it did take the check engine light off however no codes came up and it will not pass inspection because it has a iNC indicating that the Catalyst monitor is not ready how do you reset the catalyst monitors
+BigNate84 thanks for your response. Not saying I expect you to know, but I have a 98 Ford Explorer with a check engine light on since I bought in 2003. I've invested so much money into the problem which was a code for oxygen somehow getting into the engine. From changing the sensors to the intake gaskets and even a fog test, still nothing. At this point I went ahead like you and a lot of people have recommended and gotten a code reader to try and reset it and get an idea of my drive cycle. The only crappy thing right now is my check engine light has been on for so long it's burned out lol given all this info, any suggestions? Other than trash the truck haha
+tgarcia247 from my experience that will depend on the type of code your reading and also how old the car is. On my 2002 Impala it could take a few days to re-register a code. We've updated our cars now in my house to 2009 and 2012 models and the codes seem to register almost immediately now.
Thank you so much for this, after watching several videos on emissions tests, you were the only one who explained it in a way I understood. And for other people out there who live in Chicago, Autozone does not lend out obd scanners anymore. They will do it for you, but they will not erase codes even after you repair yourself. So I suggest buying the $59.99 Actron scanner on amazon which will do everything a do it your selfer needs. Thank u, thank u, thank u BigNate
All auto stores in New Mexico are the same way now too!! It doesn't matter how much time and money you sink into the bull that is required for emissions testing they absolutely will NOT clear the CEL nor will they erase any codes. (Even if they are the ones that sold you the parts after they ran the obd2 scanner on your vehicle and told you exactly what was wrong and how to fix it) My suggestion-- order a cheap obd2 scanner off the internet and do it yourself!
That is an invalid question. It's not related to distance. The monitors reset based on the conditions that the engine experiences. Cruising at low speed, cruising at high speed, cold start, etc. I don't have a comprehensive list. Requirements vary by make/model/year.
bad sensor i dont need car is great but soon i wont be able to drive because of that unconstitutional a private body guard called police will unlawfully pull me over and give me a ticket to make his master money. i wish i could just ripe that computer out cause i dont have the money to feed corrupt judiciary system. wish there was away to set computer to say all sensors are ok no matter what.
Google (Yahoo, Bing, etc.): OBD II Drive cycle for (year make model). You should be able to find all of the steps (time, speed, etc) to complete the drive cycle. Also, usually the older the vehicle, the longer it takes to complete a drive cycle. It could take 5 or 6 drive cycles to get the OBD II system ready for inspection.
The monitors reset based on the conditions that the engine experiences. Cruising at low speed, cruising at high speed, cold start, etc. I don't have a comprehensive list. Requirements vary by make/model/year.
If you are trying to resolve an issue with you check engine light you can borrow an OBD II scanner from most local automotive parts stores. In my area it's AutoZone. Once you read the trouble code you can Google the code to learn possible causes. Start with the cheapest and easiest solution first then clear the error codes from your onboard computer with the scanner. As he stated in the video, some of the diagnostics will only run if specific conditions are met so it will be worth your time to find out EXACTLY what the manufacturer of your car considers a "DRIVE-CYCLE". Print this out or take notes - you will need to meet the conditions of the drive-cycle to complete the tests.
+CharlesElla Evans Get it from autozone or online and you can reset your check engine for the light to be off but i wouldn't recommend it in case you need an inspection but if u wanna do it 'clear the codes' on the monitor or see a mechanic. goodluck
hi i have a nissan frontier 2003 couse catalyst monitor isnt ready, i drove for a month doing the cicles everything is fine bud the catalyct monitor inc??is not ready i am so tired y dont know what to do please help
hi i have a nissan frontier 2003 couse catalyst monitor isnt ready, i drove for a month doing the cicles everything is fine bude the catalyct monitor inc?? i am so tired y dont know what to do please help
will after all the senser.. being change. it turned out to be a b1 frunt Cadillic . ford dealer did find after the vist , that that was keeping the check engine light from staying off. so. to the f150 nightmare story. . clean the upper manafold.of cabin an change all the Cadillic witch there are four. it only cost $989. An truck runs like new.
I am a licensed N.Y.S inspector and I assure you a car or truck will
not pass with a rusted frame according to New York State vehicle SAFETY inspection regulations. But you are allowed one incomplete in N.Y.S.
I have a Check engine light on. My obd2 scanner is weird. It says IM-NO (which means it will not pass). Gives me a fault code P1457 and a pending code P1457P. Im guessing its the same thing. Under IM it shows that EVAP is ready but the code is actually a EVAP LEAK. It shows everything is ready and some are N/A.
If your engine light is not on then you should be fine , but changing the engine oil and air filter if needed won't hurt before the test.
If your battery has been disconnected for any reason then you need to drive the highway for a minimum of 5 kilometers and about 20 minutes through city roads so that the onboard computer can record all driving cycles.
The same for if you had an 02 sensor replaced and the code cancelled you would need to reset the computer as I spoke of earlier.
Any vehicle that is properly maintained should pass without a problem.
i have a 2001 silverado 4.8 it sat for a long time when i went to smog it didn't pass because of the second air code they replaced the check valve and pump and had the dealer flash the computer still nothing can you help?
I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3, I have no check lights but recently disconnected the battery to change the ignition cylinder. My question is do you have to perform the drive cycle in one shot or can you separate them because I live in a city and nowhere near a road long enough to perfume everything in one stretch.
+KidSon704 mine was that way 2 yrs ago, passed and soon as i went to leave it came on, just took truck for test today and i got 2 not readys ffs cuz i reset the light and only drove 16k after to the testing place
some cars get ready very quickly, I used to clear my o2 sensor check engine light in my wifes Passat and drive it straight to the inspection station and it would pass. some cars not so easy I'm fighting the Volvo at the moment with two monitors still not ready
And after you complete a drive cycle, don't shut the car off until AFTER state inspection if you know you have a code! Once the car is restarted the mil may come up immediately! It worked for me... And Nate... in Mass you can have one monitor not ready to pass... my EVAP wasn't ready, and I had a 0455. ;-) Large leak lives on for another year. Also I had a 2098, and it takes two ignition starts to set the code... PASS. =) Pending codes do not set the mil... thank God!
Thanks BigNate! My scanner says no codes but my car failed for "Readiness" . You video reminded me I can use my scanner for "Readiness". I totally forgot to scroll down and look at that. Thanks a million!
Can anybody help me? Didn't pass smog because OBD 2 not ready. Did the drive patterns and still no pass. Took it to a shop, he plugged in a machine that all five (?) OBD sensors NOT SUPPORTED. He said he suspects my Volvo needs a new "brain." I'm sick over it -- very expensive. Anyone have any ideas? P.s. No check engine light on.
The exception is the non-heated sensor(s) do NOT need to be ready, FYI (they dont count in the test) - the Rear-most (heated) needs to be ready with the other 4, 5 or 6 sensors.
Dont drive too farm, though , after the sensors are reading Ready, as the longer you drive, the more info comes from the heated sensor, and if that sensor is acting up (wildly flcutuating) then that sensors activities will push the code again.
Can't get my catalyst monitor to read ready.I drove on the highway countless miles and still.This is fricken bs Iwant someone to pay for my gas .This test has to go.Sure GM I'LL drive on the highway for the fifth time trying to set this pcm.My motherinlaw is on her second temp tag and this car wont reset.Back to the highway again and againandagainandagainandagainagainagainagain screw you ohio epa.
Just a reminder to your viewers... if you clear the OBD emission codes and then go to get an inspection, it will fail with an "OBD System Not Ready to Be Tested". Check out this Google Blog: http://obdnotready.blogspot.com/
Can someone help me? I just bought a car that says I need to check the gas cap and it's fine and I brought it for an inspection and got the catalyst and evap not ready. I only have 10 days to fix this. Will this drive cycle work?
My check engine light is not on, but because my car has been sitting for over a year, I had to jump start it before taking it to get smog. Well needless to say it didn't pass smog. What do I do to get this vehicle to pass the smog test?
Big Nate...Last year I successfully used your method above to clear error codes and then complete a drive cycle to get a new sticker, but this year after clearing the error codes, the codes return and light up very quickly (under 4 miles of driving) Any hints on how to pass this year or am I screwed? Will using a product like Sea Foam help? Don't want to pour more money into the car that I use just for neighborhood shopping
The codes are:
P0125 insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel
P1150 p A/F ratio sensor
P1153 p another fuel sensor I beleive
Sweet and just know that you educated and helped a friend of mine with this info. I was trying to explain to him the whole inspection check engine light thingy,........resetting it., etc. He didn't really understand until I had him listen to you explaining it in far better detail than I ever could.
Since your BMW is made after 1996 you would need an OBDII code scanner. It will tell you how many monitors are ready and how many are incomplete. You may not need to buy a scanner though. Most AutoZones and other car repair stores want you to buy parts from them so they will often times let you borrow the house code scanner for free. Or send a tech/sales person out to do a quick scan/ diagnostic. If your BMW hasn't completed a drive cycle in 100 miles there might be something wrong.
Hey bro really good video. My 2002 BMW 330i keeps showing up as not ready and I drove about 100 miles and is still coming up as not ready. Im just tired of taking it to the deq and seeeing that. Would any scanner tell me that its ready or not ready?
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